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Why Do Some Bag Quotations Say 20 Days and Others Say 50?

Three variables move and none of them is printed beside the number: where the clock starts, where it stops, and which stages sit inside the scope. Hold the three constant and the spread collapses. We do not promise the fastest 20 days. We promise a delivery date you can calculate.

Two quotations side by side, one showing a single number and one showing ten stages with days
Ask for the stage list. A number that cannot be added up from its own stages has dropped a stage.
Quick answer

Lead-time quotations range from 20 to 50 days because three variables move and none of them is printed next to the number: where the clock starts, where it stops, and which stages are inside the scope. Normalise all three and the gap usually closes, or explains itself as a stock-adjacent offer rather than a custom one. Six questions separate a commitment from a target.

A buyer collecting five quotations for the same 500-piece style will routinely see windows from 20 to 50 days, and the natural reading is that some vendors are fast and some are slow. That reading is almost always wrong. The spread is produced by three definitions that are rarely stated, and once the definitions are held constant the spread usually collapses or resolves into a genuine difference in scope.

Where Does the Clock Start, and How Much Is That Worth?

The start point is worth up to two weeks on its own, which is more than most of the gap buyers are trying to explain. A window counted from receipt of the deposit starts before the sample exists. A window counted from order confirmation starts earlier still. A window counted from written sample approval starts when the specification is actually frozen, and that is the only start point that describes a custom build.

Ask the question in a form that forces a date: what has to be true before your clock starts, and what date would you put on it today. A vendor who answers "when we receive the deposit" and a vendor who answers "when you approve the sample in writing" are two weeks apart before any other difference is considered, and both may be entirely honest.

The same physical run measured from four start points. Ask which one, and ask for the date.
Clock start usedDays before approvalWhat it assumes
Order confirmation20 to 30 days earlierThat the specification is already frozen at enquiry
Deposit received10 to 20 days earlierThat sampling runs in parallel with material release
Material ready5 to 10 days earlierThat the fabric is held and needs no booking
Written sample approvalDay 0That bulk is built against a frozen, approved specification

Where Does the Clock Stop, and How Much Is That Worth?

The end point is worth another week to ten days. Ex-works stops when the goods are available for collection. FOB stops at the ship rail at the named port. CIF stops at the discharge port. DDP stops at the buyer door. A 20-day ex-works number and a 35-day FOB number can describe the identical physical programme with different distances attached.

It is worth putting the four end points on one line, because the choice is often made by default rather than by decision. A buyer who has always bought on FOB will compare an FOB number against an FOB number without noticing that the vendor quoting ex-works is not slower but simply shorter. The end point is a definition, and comparing two definitions produces a difference that has nothing to do with capability.

This is where the Incoterm decision tool earns its place, because the end point is not only a calendar question. Under FOB Xiamen the risk and the calendar transfer at the ship rail, so transit, customs entry at your end and inland delivery are yours to plan. A faster number that stops earlier is not faster; it is shorter, and the missing distance has moved to your side of the ledger.

Which Stages Are Inside the Scope?

This is the largest single source of the spread and the least visible, because nobody writes "excludes inspection" on a quotation. What happens instead is that the scope is drawn around cutting, sewing and packing, and the omissions sit outside it silently. The seven steps below are the ones most often outside a short number, and each one was there to prevent something.

Each row costs days and prevents a cost. Remove the row and you keep the days and inherit the cost.
Step often outside a short quoteDays it costsWhat it was there to prevent
Lab dips and an approved shade band5 to 7Colour drift between this run and the next
A recorded dye-lot number0Having no reference to hold the mill to
Pre-production sample from bulk material2 to 3Bulk built from different material than the approval sample
Hardware first article3 to 6A similar component substituted under time pressure
In-line quality gates during the run1 to 2Defects found only at the end of the run
AQL 2.5 inspection with a written report3 to 5Having no independent record of the lot
Booking and CY cut-off planning3 to 4Finished goods rolling to the next vessel

Is the Number a Commitment or a Target?

A commitment has a consequence attached; a target has an explanation attached. That is the whole distinction and it is the one that matters most, because it predicts behaviour better than the number does. A vendor who has promised a date with a per-week remedy on a named milestone behaves differently from one who has offered a date they expect to hit.

The test is to ask what happens if a named milestone slips by a week. If the answer is a remedy, a re-plan or an escalation, the number is a commitment. If the answer is that it will be caught up, the number is a target, and targets are met when nothing goes wrong and missed when anything does. We do not promise the fastest 20 days. We promise a delivery date you can calculate.

What Makes a Genuinely Short Window Honest?

Four conditions, and they usually come as a set. The fabric is held in the warehouse in the right colour, so there is no mill booking and no dyeing thread. The hardware is a stock article in the right finish, so there is no tooling chain. The artwork needs no new screen, mould or digitising file. And the buyer is willing to accept the goods without a pre-production sample and without a written inspection.

Those four describe a stock-adjacent reorder, not a custom first run. It is a legitimate offer and there is a real market for it. The problem is only that it is printed as a lead time rather than as what it is: a catalogue programme with a narrow material range and a scope that ends at finishing. The guide on why bulk production takes 35-50 days sets out the same comparison in full.

What Are the Six Questions That Settle It?

  1. What starts your clock, and what date would you put on it today? Forces a trigger rather than a phrase.
  2. What does your number end at? Ex-works, on board, discharge port or delivered and entered.
  3. Which stages are inside the scope and which are outside? Ask for the list in days, then add it up.
  4. What sample size and accept/reject pair does the inspection run at? A number without a code letter is an opinion.
  5. What happens to the date if the first submission fails? A commitment has a branch; a target has an assurance.
  6. What document do I receive at the end of each week? A schedule produces artefacts. A promise produces apologies.

The order of the six matters as well as their content. Asked together, in writing, in a single message, they produce a comparable answer because the vendor has to hold all six in mind at once. Asked one at a time over a fortnight of messages, they produce six individually reasonable answers that do not reconcile, which is the outcome a buyer then has to spend another fortnight unpicking.

A vendor running a milestone schedule answers all six in an hour, because the answers are already in the plan. A vendor running on a fast number answers two of them, and the two that get answered are usually the first two. The four that remain are the ones that decide whether the goods arrive.

How Do You Put Two Quotations on the Same Unit?

Build a single table with three rows — start point, end point, scope — and fill it in for each vendor. Convert every number to the same start, the same end and the same scope, then compare what remains. In most comparisons the fast number is shorter by exactly the stages it does not include, and once those are added back the two converge.

There is a second convergence worth running, and it is the one buyers forget. Ask both vendors what their number excludes rather than what it includes. Inclusions are easy to list because they are the selling part. Exclusions are the honest answer, and two quotations with identical headline numbers and different exclusion lists are not the same offer at all.

What remains after that convergence is the queue, which is the one thing a buyer cannot see from outside. A claimed spare capacity is not a slot; a slot is a line, a week and a quantity, and it can be shown. Ask which line and which week, and if the answer is that there is always room, ask what happens when two buyers ask in the same week.

What Does a Comparable Quote Contain?

Trigger
Written sample approval plus deposit, both dated
Window
35-50 days, with the stage list in days attached
End point
On board at Xiamen under FOB terms
Inspection
AQL 2.5, ISO 2859-1, General Inspection Level II, code letter stated
Remedy
A named consequence when a named milestone slips

Ask for the five fields in the same message as the six questions and the whole comparison takes one round of correspondence. That is the practical value of writing it down: not that the document is enforceable, though it is, but that the conversation ends in an afternoon instead of a fortnight, and the decision is made against a table rather than against a feeling about which vendor replied fastest.

Five fields and the comparison stops being about who is faster and starts being about who is measuring the same thing. That is the only version of the comparison in which the answer means anything.

Reading a lead-time quotation

  • The start point is worth up to two weeks; the end point another week to ten days.
  • Scope omissions are never printed. Ask for the stage list and add it up.
  • A commitment has a consequence attached; a target has an explanation attached.
  • Four conditions make a short window honest, and together they describe a stock-adjacent programme.
  • After normalising, what remains is the queue — and a slot can be shown while spare capacity cannot.
Comparison worksheet with three rows for start, end and scope filled in for two vendors
Normalise first. Comparing two numbers measured on different clocks compares nothing.

What Does the Spread Tell You About the Vendor?

Less than buyers expect, and that is worth saying plainly. A vendor quoting 20 days is not necessarily less capable than one quoting 50; the two may simply be selling different things — a stock-adjacent catalogue programme and a custom development programme. The number tells you about the offer. The six questions tell you about the vendor, and the six questions are the ones worth spending an hour on.

What the spread does reveal, when it is normalised and still wide, is the queue. Two vendors with the same start point, the same end point and the same scope who disagree by two weeks are disagreeing about how much work is already booked. That is real, it is invisible from outside, and it is the one difference a buyer cannot resolve by asking better questions. Ask for the slot, take the answer at face value, and decide.

When Is the Faster Number the Right Answer?

When the product is genuinely stock-adjacent and the buyer knows it. A reorder of a style already in the catalogue, in a held colour, with stock hardware, for a launch that does not depend on a brand-owned shade: take the short number and take the saving. There is nothing dishonourable about it and nothing wrong with the vendor offering it.

There is a middle case that deserves a name, because it is where most real decisions land: a programme that is partly custom. Stock fabric, branded hardware, a retail-ready pack. That combination can honestly be quoted at the short end of the published range, and the buyer should expect the number rather than treat it as a concession. Knowing which case you are in is the whole point of asking for the stage list.

The failure case is the first run of a custom style quoted on the stock-adjacent model. There the short number buys the days by removing the controls, and the bill arrives later as colour drift, hardware substitution, an undetected defect rate or a rolled vessel. Buyers who have paid one of those four bills stop asking for the fastest number and start asking for the one with the most milestones attached.

Planning meeting comparing two schedules, one with ten named milestones and one with a single date
The schedule with more lines is not slower. It is the one that can be checked.

Send us the quote you are comparing against

Send the competing quotation and the date you need the goods on board. We will put both on the same start point, the same end point and the same scope, and tell you where the days actually differ. Sampling 6-10 working days, bulk 35-50 days from sample approval, AQL 2.5, FOB Xiamen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do bag suppliers quote anywhere from 20 to 50 days?

Because the clock start, the end point and the scope all vary and none of the three is printed next to the number. Normalise them and the gap usually closes.

How much can the clock start point change a quote?

Up to two weeks. Counting from order confirmation rather than written sample approval removes the sampling and approval period from the number without removing it from the calendar.

What is the difference between ex-works and FOB on a quote?

Ex-works stops when goods are available for collection; FOB Xiamen stops at the ship rail. The difference is the inland leg, the export documents and the booking.

Which stages are usually missing from a short quote?

Lab dips and a shade band, a pre-production sample, a hardware first article, in-line gates, a written AQL 2.5 inspection and booking to the CY cut-off.

How do I tell a commitment from a target?

Ask what happens if a named milestone slips by a week. A remedy or a re-plan is a commitment; an assurance that it will be caught up is a target.

Is a 20-day custom bag order possible?

Only when fabric and hardware are stock items, no tooling is needed, and the buyer accepts the goods without a pre-production sample or a written inspection.

Should I always choose the faster quotation?

When the product is genuinely stock-adjacent and the buyer knows it, yes. On the first run of a custom style the short number buys days by removing controls.

What does "we always have capacity" actually mean?

That nobody else has booked the week in question, which is not something anyone can know about a future week. Ask for a slot: a line, a week and a quantity.

How do I compare two quotes in the same unit?

Build a three-row table for start point, end point and scope, convert both numbers to the same basis, and compare what remains.

What is the MOQ on a comparable quotation?

500 pcs per style and colourway, with 300 open to discussion on a repeat. The minimum is a mill and set-up constraint before it is a commercial one.

Does a faster number mean fewer inspection stages?

Usually. Inspection with a written report needs three to five days including the re-check branch, and a schedule that fits inside 20 days has no room for it.

Which Incoterm should I ask both vendors to quote?

Whichever one you intend to buy on, and the same one from both. Comparing an ex-works number with an FOB number compares distances, not vendors.

What if the faster vendor is also the one with the better sample?

Then ask for the stage list. A good sample room and a fast bulk schedule are different capabilities, and the second one is the one that decides the date.

People Also Ask

Why do bag lead times vary so much between suppliers?

Because the start point, the end point and the scope vary. Normalise all three before comparing the numbers.

How do I compare two bag quotations fairly?

Put both on the same clock start, the same end point and the same scope, then add up the stage list each vendor names.

Is a 20-day bag production lead time realistic?

For a stock-adjacent reorder with held fabric and stock hardware, yes. For a custom first run with a named shade, no.

What should a bag quotation include?

A trigger, a window with its stage list, an end point, an inspection standard with a sample size, and a remedy for a slipped milestone.

What is the difference between a lead time and a delivery date?

A lead time is a window measured between two points. A delivery date is that window attached to a trigger, an end point and a consequence.

Sources and further reading

Every figure on this page is either our own programme data or attributed below. Open the originals before you write them into a specification.